@kalimov
2014-11-24T20:12:34.000000Z
字数 14737
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Build your own 3d printer filament factory (Filament Extruder) by ianmcmill
麻麻再也不用担心木有3D打印耗材啦，我能生产、卖耗材啦
Too long, didn't read:
这个教程想说的是（省略数千字版本）：
Make your own 3D printer filament !
自力更生做3D打印丝！
Cheap and high quality at a decent speed of 150-190 IPM ! (4-5 meters per minute)
价廉物美，生产速度每分钟150~190英寸（约每分钟4~5米）。
UPDATE: Now with wiring diagram !
更新：“芯法秘路”发表！
Long read:
这个教程想说的是（洋洋数千字版本）：
3D printers are cool and they finally start to drop in price. Kickstarter campaigns like the one from QB-UP or M3D are popping up and they are finally "affordable". And with affordable I mean affordable like 200
3D打印机的确很棒，最终价格也正在下滑。众筹项目中类似QBUP或M3D之流不断涌现，用户终将负担得起。所谓“负担得起”，我的意思是200美金价格档位，而非2.199美金砸锅卖铁价之流。不过，一旦你欢天喜地晋身为3D打印机用户时，你很快会意识到你的钱包只能让它在家里吃土。你当然需要塑料丝来打印那些超酷外表钩子和轮挡之类的零件，而现在巧妇难为无米之炊，成了怨妇了。因为这些丝状耗材价格会抬高实际物料价格，即便用之前提到的白菜价打印机打印也不便宜，而且也是阻碍3D打印群体发展的原因。
BUT FEAR NO MORE !! Some clever gents came along - Hugh Lyman with his Lyman Extruder may be mentioned here or the guys over at Filastruder.com - and saved the day ! YAY. And there was much rejoicing ! They have built plastic extruders everyone can build or buy at a decent price. However if you are a fellow Instructable.com user the first thing that should come to your mind is "I can build this by myself...and cheaper...". Building at lower costs is the nature of DIY after all.
莫怕！！有不少聪明人士解决这个问题——Hugh Lyman带来他的挤压成型机在这个教程出现，成为大家的福音。还有更激动人心的！他们做的塑料挤出机，任何人都能做一个，或者以合理价格买一个。不过作为创客神教忠实信徒，往往会想“我能自己做一个，或更便宜些……”DIY迷的天性就是追求低成本制作。
And much more fun than putting together a premade kit, of course.
补充一句，这当然比买预制套装回来组装更有乐趣。
Special greetings go out to Xabbax and his plain simple but super awesome Low Cost Filament Extruder !
特别向Xabbax和他的特别简单但特别出众低成本打印丝挤出机致敬！
So how much money do I save when making my own filament ?
那么我需要存多少钱才能开始做耗材呢？
Good question ! A lot !
问的好！很多！
Depending on the pellets you get you can make your filament starting at 1$/kg.
这取决于你能拿到多少塑料颗粒，通常耗材成本1美元/千克起。（人民币6.5元左右吧）
How long does it take to produce 1 kg of filament you may ask ??
也许你要问生产1千克耗材需要多长时间？
Using the build I describe here...roughly 1 hour. (for 1,75mm filament using ABS/PC pellets).
这个设计下，粗略1小时。（使用ABS/PC塑料颗粒的1.75毫米耗材）
So, let's say on a Saturday in your next workshop session you start at 10 AM and batten down the hatches at 5 PM you could make 4-5 kg of filament, saving between 125-150 $ leaving you with lots of filament for hundreds of thousands of eggcups and phone cases and other useless needful things.
那么，可以这么说，在一个周六，你的工作车间某个隔间里，从早上10点开始到下午5点收工时你能制作出4-5千克耗材， 省下大约125-150美元（人民币700-1000元之间），能买上成千上百个塑料杯、手机壳或其他可有可无的东西了。
Oh yeah what about the build cost ?
哦耶，那制作机器成本呢？
Depending on shipping and local prices, I would guess around 130-150$.
取决于物流和物价，大概在130-150美金之内。（人民币1000元以内）
Next step: List of Materials
下一步：材料清单
Step 1: Material list
第一步：材料清单：
Except for the electronics everything listed here can be bought at your local hardware store.
除了电子零件之外，这里列出的所有东西都能在本地五金铺买到。
Materials:
材料：
1x Wiper Motor (Ebay EU - 15€) / 5€ from the junkyard
1x Auger bit(diameter = 16mm ; length = 460mm)
1x PID Temperatur Controller - DC 12V version (Ebay)
1x SSR-25DA Solid State Relay 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC / 25A (Ebay)
1x K-type thermocouple (Ebay - like this one; does not need to be that shop :) just an example)
-->!!! Sometimes the PID is bundled with an SSR and an K-Type Thermocouple !!!<--
- 一个雨刮电机，可以的话能拣破烂回来一个
- 一个麻花钻头（直径16毫米，长度460毫米）
- 一个12伏PID温度控制器
- 一个SSR-25DA直流3-32伏转交流24-380伏，25安固态继电器
- 一个K型热电偶（注意：有时PID部件和SSR及K型热电偶是捆绑销售的。）
1x Motor Controller 20A (Ebay)
- 一个20安电机控制器
1x Power Supply 12V, 240W+ (Ebay)
- 一个12伏240瓦以上电源
1x Heating band (200 Watt 25mmx30mm) (Ebay)
- 一个加热带（200瓦25毫米x30毫米）
2x Fans (80mm) 12V
- 两个12伏风扇（80毫米）
1x Fitting 3/4" US Inch UNC --- 1/2" German Inch - 18cm long
- 一个美制3/4"通用接头1/2"长（18厘米）
1x Water tap extension - 3/4" UNC threads --- 1/2" German Inch - 50mm long, 27mm diameter (one core thread and one exterior thread)
- 一个水龙头延展部件，3/4"通用螺纹1/2"长（50毫米长，直径27毫米，具有内外螺纹那种）
1x End cap 1/2"
- 一个1/2"底盖
1x Faucet-mounted filter - 1/2" diameter
- 一个直径1/2"水龙头过滤器
3x Steel angle
- 3块角钢
1x Axial ball thrust bearing (Ebay) - Fitting exactly onto the auger bit's shaft.
- 一个轴向球型推力轴承，能和麻花钻手柄吻合
2x 10mm threaded rod
- 两条10毫米螺纹杆
1x Insulation
- 一块隔热材料
PTFE tape
- 生料带
Heat resistant tape
- 抗热胶带
3x Rocker (previously "rocket") switches
- 三个摇杆开关
1x Wooden board 100cm x 10cm x 2cm
- 一块木板，尺寸100厘米x10厘米x2厘米
Several screws and nuts
- 几个螺丝和螺母
2x sockets (1 that fits on the auger bit and 1 that fits on the nuts of the motor shaft)
- 两个插座（一个和麻花钻吻合，另一个用来配电机摇杆螺母）
Wires (two colors)
- 导线（两种颜色）
Tools:
工具：
Multitool (Dremel-like)
Saw
Hammer
Drill
- 多功能工具钳（类似达美工具那种）
- 锯子
- 锤子
- 钻
Step 2: Base plate
第二步：底盘
Take the wooden board and cut away two pieces each 15cm in length (~6"). They will serve as a mount for the motor and for the barrel.
将木板切成两片，每片长15厘米（约6英寸）。它们用来承载电机和滚筒。
Step 3: The motor mount
第三步：电机座
Mount the wiper motor to the motor mount and place it somewhere at the end of the base plate. See the technical drawing for an estimation.
将雨刮电机放在电机座上，然后整个放在底盘某个角落上。可以参考技术草图来预估位置。
Use the steel angles to attach it to the base plate.
将角钢和底盘拼在一起。
The motor just has a threaded shaft. For the coupling to fit onto the motor I took a hex-nut with 13mm outer diameter and put it on the shaft. When the shaft rotates and the coupling is attached, the nut would untwist. To fix this I drilled a hole in-between the attached nut and the motor shaft and put in a 2mm steel bolt. This prevents the nut from opening. See the last picture above.
电机上有螺纹轴，我用个13毫米外径的六角螺母将联轴器和电机连接起来。当螺纹轴转动而联轴器安装好时，螺母就会扭开。要解决这问题，我在螺母和电机轴之间钻了个洞，在里面放了个2毫米螺栓，这么一来就能防止螺母松脱。可参照上面最后一幅图。
Step 4: The barrel mount
第四步：滚筒座
Drill two holes into the other piece of wood so the flanges can be attached left and right of the board. Drill another 1/2" hole for the auger bit.
在另一片木板上钻两个洞，在板子左右边安上法兰。接着再钻个1/2"洞眼给麻花钻使用。
Both mounting boards need their center opening to be aligned to each other so the auger / coupling / shaft-axis can rotate freely.
两块安装地板都需要中间开洞并作出调整，这样钻头/联轴器/电机轴就能自由转动。
Fasten the flanges with two pieces of the 10mm threaded rod. The rods must be left long enough so they can be screwed to the auger "kickback protection". 10 cm is good enough. They can be cut to size later on.
将法兰和两条10毫米螺纹杆上紧。螺纹杆必须保留足够长度才能和钻头的回扣保护上在一块。10厘米足够了，之后可以剪短修整。
This will get clear in the next step.
下一步时，这个步骤成果将变得清晰。
Step 5: Auger kickback protection
第五步：麻花钻回扣保护
When the auger bit turns and hauls the pellets a lot of pressure builds up. In the worst case this could damage the worm drive inside the wiper motor. To counter that problem, we need a kickback protection. This is simply done by a sturdy steel angle and an axial ball thrust bearing.These ball bearing withstand alot of force applied to them.
当钻头转动，推送塑料颗粒时，就会积累大压力。最坏的情况下，这将毁掉雨刮电机里的蜗杆传动机构。要解决这个问题，我们需要个回扣保护。用一块坚固的角钢和一个轴向球型推力轴承就能解决问题，而这些轴承小球就能承受大量的压力。
It works like that: The auger pushed back due to its "backward" turning attitude. Because of its taper the auger's shaft pushes against the axial ballthrust bearing which itself pushes against the steel angle. The coupling between the auger and the motor should always have a little clearance. So that no force is applied to the motors shaft.
它的工作原理如下：钻头因为自身回转工作方式而产生回退现象。因为它的锥形结构，钻轴就对轴向滚珠轴承产生推力，再推往角钢上面。在钻子和电机之间的联动器应时常保有一小段空隙，于是就不会对电机轴施加压力。
Now place the steel angle with the inserted rods at a distance to the barrel mount so that the auger's shaft sticks out for about 3-4cm (~1.5"-2").
现在将插有杆子的角钢放置在滚筒座一段距离外，钻轴将伸出约3-4厘米（1.5到2英寸之间）。
The pictures should explain it as well. Moreover I have made a short video that should illustrate it as well. The dimensions of the parts might differ from the ones you have access to. So exact measurement might not help you very much, but the pictures should give you an idea how it should be put together.
按照图上说的去做。再者，我也做了个短片演示成果。尺寸方面你做的和我做的零件也许有点出入，所以精确测量并不能帮你多少，但图片能给你个直观印象来进行制作组装。
Step 6: The barrel and auger bit
第六步：滚轴与麻花钻
Barrel:
滚筒：
Smooth out the ends and the seams of the pipe so the auger bit can rotate freely.
将边缘磨光，接好管子，让钻头能平滑旋转。
Before cutting an opening into the pipe screw it tight onto the flange and mark the upper area and remove the barrel again.
在管子上面开口前，将它旋紧在法兰上面，标示出上部区域，然后再把它拆下来。
Take your multitool and cut out the marked area at the end of the pipe where the pellets should fall in. Wind some PTFE tape around that end of the pipe. This should prevent the pipe from turning with the augers movement. Remember the motor is very powerful and if there is some friction between the auger and the pellets, the pipe easily turns another 4-5 mm even if it was fastened with a monkey wrench.
用多刃工具切掉标示部分，作为塑料颗粒进料口。用一些生料带缠绕在管子末端，这样能防止钻头转动时管子也跟着一块转。记住电机是很给力的，如果在钻头和塑料颗粒之间产生一些摩擦的话，即便用活动扳手上紧管子也无济于事，它能轻易转动4-5毫米。
The threads on the flange and fittings are not made for perfect 90° angles. So the fitting/barrel might stand in an oblique angle. To fix this take some washers and place them under the flang where necessary.
在法兰上的螺纹和设备之间并非呈完整直角，所以设备和滚筒之间会出现斜角。解决这个，只要将一些垫片放在需要垫高的法兰下面即可。
Take a square piece of wood and drill a hole lengthways for the pipe to run through. Now drill another hole orthogonal to the "pipe channel" so that a bottle can fit tightly. Now just cut the block in half for easy dis/-assembly.
在一块正方形木块上沿着长边钻个洞，留给管子通过。接着在“管子通道”垂直方向再钻个洞，能把瓶子紧紧契合起来。现在将木块切为两段，易于组装和拆卸。
Auger-bit:
麻花钻：
The auger might be too long so you need to cut off its tip with an angle grinder.
钻子本身太长的话，用角磨机切掉它的顶端。
The auger bit should reach up to the heater. See the pictures above.
钻头应贴近加热器，参考图片所示。
Step 7: The auger-motor coupling
第七步：钻头—电机联动器
Take a 5cm (2 inch) piece of a square steel that fits into the ends of the sockets (about 12mm edge length).
Put the coupling on the auger bit and attach the motor to the motor mount.
准备一块5厘米（2英寸）正方形钢块，能和插口底部嵌合在一起（大约12毫米边长）。
将联动器放在钻头上，然后将它们插在电机座上的电机上面。
The coupling should now fit nicely in-between.
中间联动器现在应很好吻合。
Alternatively you could use a spark plug socket instead of the two sockets. But therefore the distance between the motor-mount and the auger/barrel-mount needs adjustment.
另一种做法是用一个火花塞插座代替先前的两个插座，但这么一来，电机座和钻子/滚筒座之间的距离需要调整。
I went with the above mentioned method because I did not have spark plug socket at hand but I will try this with the next build.
我用上面那种方法，因为我手上没有火花塞插座。不过我会在下一个作品上面尝试另一个方法。
Step 8: The nozzle
第八步：喷嘴
Nozzle diameter:
Depending on the material you process the diameter of the hole in the nozzle will vary and finding the right dimension is a process of trial and error. For ABS/PC blend pellets with a melting point between 240-280°C a 1.5mm hole perfomed well from my experience.
喷嘴直径：
取决于你要加工处理的材料，喷嘴的孔径是可变的，而确定合适尺寸是充满了试验与失败的过程。对熔点在240-280°C之间的ABS/PC混合颗粒来说，我的经验是1.5毫米孔径能很好运作。
Breaker plate:
断路器板：
Take the faucet-mounted filter and cut it into a 1/2" diameter if needed. This will act as a breaker plate. What this breaker plates does is mix the molten plastic and retains dirty (which should not be there of course) and eventually small bubbles that could occur in the melting process. This helps smoothing the plastic pushing through the nozzle.
如有需要，将水龙头过滤器切为1/2"直径，作为断路器板。断路器板的作用是将熔融塑料混合，将杂质和最终生成的小气泡隔离。这能使从喷嘴流畅喷出塑料耗材。（译者注：其实就是过滤杂质，避免以后喷嘴堵头。）
Be sure there are no chippings or strands ! You don't want to ruin your printers nozzle !
需要注意的是，不能有沙粒或线头在里面，要不然将会毁掉打印机喷头的！
Take a washer, place it inside the end cap and put the DIY breaker plate on top.
将一片垫片放在底盖里面，然后将DIY断路器板
Step 9: Band heater and temperatur probe (K-type thermocouple)
第九步：加热带和温度探头（K型热电偶）
Drill a 2mm hole near the front of the water tap extender for the thermocouple to fit in.
在水龙头延展部件的前端附近钻个2毫米小孔，在里面安装热电偶。
Strip the thermocouple wire to length. It should just be as long as needed.
将热电偶导线剥掉一定长度，刚够需要的就好。
Push the band heater on the tap extender. It should sit around the end of the extender.
将加热带推到水龙头延展部件内，它应该贴合在管道壁上。
Next take some PTFE tape and wind it around the thread of the tap extender. This prevents the molten plastic from squeezing through the thread.
接着用一些生料带在水龙头延展部件螺纹口缠绕，以防止熔融塑料从管口溢出。
Fix the thermocouple with some heat resistant tape.
用一些隔热胶带将热电偶固定起来。
Then put on the nozzle from the previous step.
然后将上一步提到的喷嘴安装好。
Next, take a 10cm long piece of aluminium tubing with a diameter of around 1cm and place it in front of the nozzle using some rigid wire. This gives the filament a nice curl when cooling.
Thanks Xabbax for the idea.
接着，用一些硬丝把一段10厘米长直径约1厘米的铝管固定在喷嘴前，使得耗材在冷却时有个完美的外形曲线。
Now wrap the insulation around the heater so that the nozzle is covered as well.
现在将绝热材料包在加热器外面，这样也能很好保护喷嘴。
Step 10: Cooling
第十步：冷却
The front of the nozzle and the motor needs some cooling.
喷嘴前端和电机需要冷却。
The filament is still very hot and soft when it exits the nozzle. To prevent it from stretching too much from the affecting g-forces when falling down, cooling is very important. The more you cool the better you can control the diameter of the filament later on.
耗材从喷嘴出来时还是很热很软，要避免在重力环境落下时导致拉伸变形，冷却是很重要的。你冷却得越好，你能控制耗材的直径精度就越好。（译者注：要不然到时打印就容易“兔子拉屎——断断续续”了。）
Although the motor builds up some heat and the fan helps to keep it cool.
电机本身运行也会发热，风扇就能起到冷却作用。
Step 11: Electronics
第十一步：电子元件
Now that most of the mechanical parts are set and done it is time for installing the electronics.
But before, take a piece of wood for the front enclosure and arrange the 3 rocket switches, the PID controller and the motor controller's potentiometer and fix them with some hot glue.
现在大部分机械部件安装完成，是时候安装电子元件了。在这之前，准备前端外壳用的木料，还有三个摇臂开关、PID控制器和电机控制器的电位计，用热熔胶固定起来。
Main power
Connect the power cord via a rocker/t switch to the power supply (Ports L, N and Ground).
主电源
将电源线通过摇臂开关连接到电源上。（包括火线、零线和地线）
PID temperature controller
Connect the PID temperature controller via rocker switches to the power supply.
PID温控
通过摇臂开关将电源和PID温控连接起来。
Solid State Relay & Band heater
Connect the 12V ports of Solid State Relay to the PID (Port 6 and 8)
Connect port 1 of the SSR to the 220V (EU) /120V (US) port (Port L) of the power supply.
Connect port 2 of the SSR to one of the band heater ports.
The other free port of the band heater is connected to the N port of the power supply.
固态继电器和加热带
将固态继电器12伏端口和PID（端口6和8）连接起来。
将SSR端口1和电源火线连接起来。
将SSR端口2和加热器一个端口连接起来。
加热带另外空余出来的端口和电源零线连接起来。
What does the SSR do actually ??
The band heater is a 220V part but the PID only runs on 12V. Therefore the SSR connects the 12V PID with the 220V heater. The PID powers the SSR on and off if needed. When it is on then 220V are connected to the band heater and it gets warm. If the relay is off, the band heaters isn't connected to 220V and ergo is powered down. The idea is to control a high power device (Heater) with a low power device (PID).
SSR到底是干什么的？
加热带是220伏零件，但PID只能在12伏电压环境运行。因此SSR是作为12伏PID和220伏加热器的中介。PID控制SSR开关。当开启时，220伏电压就加在加热带上面，然后温度升高。继电器断开时，加热带就和220伏断开，因此就等于关闭了。原理是利用低压设备（PID）来控制高压设备（加热器）。
Motor controller
电机控制
Connect the motor controller via a rocker switch to the power supply. Then connect the motor to the motor controller. Use the pinout for the 2nd speed setting of the motor. The pinouts differ from model to model and you first have to find out which pins are for which speed setting.
The two fans are connected to the same ports as the motor is to the motor controller.
通过摇臂开关把电机控制和电源连接起来，然后将电机和电机控制连在一起。第二引出线用来设定电机速度，但不同型号之间的引出线不同，你首先得要确定出哪条是用来调速的。
Wiring diagram
接线图
I am not sure if I am allowed to post the wiring diagrams for license reasons so I will link to the respective websites.
1) Filastruder wiring diagram
2) Filabot Wee wiring diagram (scroll down)
3) Here is a link to the Sestos PID I used.
这里贴出接线图，包括：
1)[Filastruder电路接线图]
Step 12: Extrusion settings and setting up the PID
第十二步：出料设定和PID设定
Different materials need different extrusion settings.
不同材料，不同出料设定。
For pure ABS a temperatur of 190°C is about right.
纯ABS的话，190°C正好。
PLA requires less heat and ABS/PC blend needs higher temperatures like 260-270°C.
PLA需要略低一点温度，而ABS/PC混合料需要较高温度，约260-270°C。
The Sestos PID is able to autotune to the desired temperature.
Sestos PID能够自动调温恒温。
PID controller setup:
PID控制器设定：
To enable the autotune function press "SET" for 3 seconds.
You will now see "HIAL" on the display. Now use the DOWN button until you see "Ctrl" and adjust it to "2". This is the number for the autotune function. Press "SET" again until you see the temperature readout again. Just after all the EP1-8 options. Set the desired temperature using the up and down buttons and wait until the display stops flashing (~10-15 minutes).
按下“SET”3秒钟，开启设定自动调温功能。
在显示屏上会看见“HIAL”字样。现在按向下按钮，直到能看到“Ctrl”，然后调整为“2”。这是自动调温功能序号。再次按下“SET”直到你看到屏幕显示温度数据。遍历第一到第八选项，用上下键设定理想温度，等待，直到显示器停止闪烁。（约10-15分钟）
Activate the motor and let the extruding begin. You have to play around with the speed of the motor.
启动电机，让挤压成型机开始工作。你需要拨弄一下电机速度来获得理想状况。
From my experience setting the potentiometer to half speed @ 270°C for ABS/PC performed very well.
根据我的经验，将电位器调到半速档，在270°C条件下能很好处理ABS/PC材料。
原文链接 原作：Ian Mcmill 译者：Kalimov Lok
